SIRACUSA -- The Chippings "Giro di Siclia" ended here last night at the Lol Hostel where it began two weeks ago. The closing ceremonies featured sea urchin pasta ("spaghetti ricci di mare") and a final pinochle game won by the unlikely partnership of Filippo and il Brutto.
Giuseppe brought his delivery van to load up the bikes. We praised his cycles and equipment, noting that while we had three minor falls (Dino twice and Bruce once), we did not suffer a broken spoke or a single flat. Giuseppe pointed to his bikes' German-made Schwab tires. "They cost 37 euros each and are impenetrable," he said.
While the Chippings Dispute Resolution Committee and its Let's Get Our Feelings Out Consensus Group failed to convene a formal "Lessons Learned" discussion, here are some insights about cycling in Sicily:
1) Speak some Italian. With at least advanced beginner ability in la bella lingua, you can engage friendly, curious and helpful locals. On more than one occasion, a question about a street, a shop or a food led some Siciliano to takes us by the elbow down the street to a trattoria or a bike shop. Sometimes, it led to a meal.
2) Accept that the public tourist offices are hopeless. They are closed on Saturdays, Sundays, Friday afternoons and on the feast days of any Italian saint who can be claimed as a local patroness. When they are open, the staff may be able to offer a map of the city in Italian or perhaps a computer-translated English gibberish guide. Little else. And they are unlikely to speak English. Ask the tourist lady in Italian to book a B&B for you and you'll get a look that says, "I work for the city and that is not part of my job description."
3) Don't believe the traffic or directional signs. Often signs pointing to the "Centro" have arrows in polar opposite directions at the same intersection. After awhile, I realized: This is true. You can go either way to get to the Centro. Nonetheless, it's disconcerting. Even more so when "Centro" signs disappear altogether. As for the frequent one-way streets, no problem. Police waved as we cycled the wrong way down "Senso Unico" lanes.
4) Cycle aggressively or you'll wait forever. Sicilian drivers are assertive and will grab the road if you yield it. But they are also competent and respectful of cyclists, including many of their own who tool around on weekend mornings in Tour de France gear. Typically, drivers gave us a faint toot just to let us know they were there behind us on narrow or shoulder-less roads.
5) Don't expect to find food at lunch time. Except for the occasional bar, where you might manage a pastry or a slice of pizza, virtually everything is closed from 1 to 4 pm in Sicily. Everyone goes home for "pranzo" with mamma. Restaurants are open for dinner and are rarely ready to serve before 8 pm.
6) Cycle in Sicily in spring or fall or you'll die of heat exhaustion. Summer temperatures go over 100 degrees F. On hot days, shade is precious.
7) If you're traveling Chippings "di piu economica" style, expect to stay in hostels with dorms or be prepared to share beds and rooms at B&B's. Sicilian B&B's, which rarely have more than three rental bedrooms altogether, are equipped for couples, not grouchy old guys who think they don't snore. So suck it up.
8) Finally, expect some absolutely breathtaking vistas, incredible medieval towns, turquoise blue seas, delectable fish dishes and some gregarious people delighted to converse even pigeon Italiano with biciclisti americani.
In subsequent posts, the Chippings themselves will sum up the Giro di Siclia in short video clips.
Location:Siracusa, Italia
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